Monday, April 07, 2014

SPRINGTIME AT GINO"S PASTRY SHOP



                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Every year since I've lived  over in the Arthur Ave community March is a very anxious time for me. St. Joseph's day has arrived and it's time to hit the bakeries for the traditional treats prepared for the feast day. I have visions of Sfingi and Zeppole frying in my head. So many choices and so little time. I never know where to start. Every pastry shop in the neighborhood is #1. Every year , it takes me at least three taste tests to eat my way across the competition , but I don't gain any weight. My secret : I live there so I get exercise walking to the various stores. I think sometimes it depends on the time of day or how hungry I am , but I do have trouble deciding. But I keep going. Yesterday. we visited Gino's on 187th street between Arthur Avenue and Hoffman Street. Jerome aka The Cannoli  King , took good care of us. He took those beautifully browned light and airy puffs and filled them with fresh ricotta cream right before our eyes. Then a garnish of candied citron. A visual feast. Then the first bite tells you about purity of product. All at once your mouth is alive with a symphony of taste and texture.The dough is a rich contrast of chewy and soft. Light and airy ,see the interior below. Then the cream, sweet and creamy ricotta mixed with chocolate chips and citron,  beaten into sublime submission , but managing to retain the integrity of the cheese texture. It is not over beaten. It is surprisingly filling which I attribute to the simplicity and purity of the natural  ingredients. The lack of processed foods used in Italian cooking is one of the reasons it's so good, and good for you. The products used are as close to their natural state as possible. Don't even think about passing up this shop when visiting Belmont. And, if you need  a cake for that really special occasion,  this is the place . The cakes are not only a taste treat, but are a feast for the eyes. Look for a blog and on the specialty cakes coming soon . Next, I'll be visiting Artuso's. I have to hurry. It's already April and St. Joseph's pastry will be but  a memory until next year. They are not readily available year round.

The Cheese Wars

I read an article this morning about the cheese wars, Initially, I considered the story to be an attention grabbing product of folks who really enjoy a fight and have little to fight about.Then I took a closer look. It seems the Europeans want to stop America from selling regional products that bear the names of some of the regions most prized exports. The economy is at it's worst and the Americans are unable to produce anything worse than most of these fake cheeses. I mean there are some really great naturally processed American cheeses that are being produced , but we are also guilty of plastic shreds in jars and labeling it  "Parmesan". Enough said.
Looking at  Parmagiano-
-Reggiano I  did a bit of research and found that in the UK, Costa Rica, Central, South America as well as other places , there are laws in place forbidding pseudo Parmesan ,(aka cellulose cheeses), to bear the name of parmigiano. This is not regulated in America, but it should be. If you've ever tasted Kraft , or any of the other "Parmesan" as they call it, you already know the Italians have nothing to worry about .However there are those consumers who don't even realize that the packaged products they are consuming is little more than cheese scented soap suds. Most of the ingredients are chemical additives and some really do taste soapy.
Parmigiano, on the other hand, contains only three ingredients: milk, salt, and rennet which is a natural enzyme harvested from calf gut. But the problem is these cheap substitutes are eating  a significant chunk of the market. According to a story in the New York Times, Parmigiano is so valuable , Credito Emilio has been accepting cheese from producers as collateral since 1953. Special climate controlled vaults were built to hold the cheese during the aging process. If the producer defaults, the cheese is sold at current market values.
It must be considered that America is the largest exporter of cheeses in the world. So why not stick to what we know . American Cheddars from Wisconsin, New York, and Vermont; the sweet nutty blues from Pennsylvania.There are many types from many states.Canned and jarred cheese should be required,
at the very least, to state they are nothing more than that. They should be labeled as cheese substitutes or pasta toppings.Time to stop being ugly Americans and trying to hog everything.